Winter is the season for red chile enchilada sauce. You can almost smell the pinon and juniper smoke drifting from the leaky wood stove. It’s good on potatoes, squash and other wintry foods, keeping you warm inside and out, from your spicy mouth to your sweating skin.

You can find the ingredients for a good red chile nearly everywhere, from the bulk section of Whole Foods to the “ethnic foods” aisle of a small town supermarket with little more than salsa, soy sauce and ramen.

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