Icy & spicy: Korean noodle dish is savory and refreshing

On the sidewalk outside of a Korean restaurant in a suburban Vancouver strip mall last summer, a signboard announced “Summer Menu.” I had no idea what that meant, but Korean food rarely lets me down. In that steaming humidity, with my shirt sticking to my body, I walked through the restaurant door. By the time I emerged, everything was different.

On the menu, I had noticed a dish called naengmyeon (knee-yang-my-in), billed as a cold noodle soup. I didn’t know much more, but it seemed like a great choice for that sweltering day, so I ordered it. The server brought a platter filled with little bowls of pickled vegetables, and a big bowl of ice, topped with noodles and vegetables. I’ve had plenty of meals served on hot plates to keep them warm, but never had a meal served on ice. He then poured a pitcher of clear, cold broth into the bowl, and set me loose on it.